The Skiing at Kirkwood
Kirkwood’s terrain offers everything, from sauntering beginner runs to knee-buckling chutes. Kirkwood’s vertical drop and skiable acreage don’t impress quantitatively. But in ‘49er hydraulic-mining fashion, Kirkwood washes away conventional metrics with what we like to call slope access efficiency. Getting to some the finest expert terrain in Northern California, like Wagon Wheel and Sentinel Bowls, can be had directly from the base area. No tram lines necessary. Nor do skiers of this best terrain need to spend time traversing garbage groomers to get to the base. Kirkwood offers maximum advanced and expert terrain with minimum pain.
Powder chasing tip: Palisades Bowl, skier’s left from Cornice Express, is a local favorite on storm days. With its widely spaced trees and gentle pitches, the stashes here are looted quickly after a storm. So if you want to hit it, don’t dither, just hit it.
Some say the snow in this part of the valley contains pixie dust, which makes it lighter and drier than snow found in other parts of the Sierra Crest. Perhaps this is marketing spin, or a carryover from gold miner’s lore, or something more base. Whatever it is, it’s undeniable that the veins and washes of Palisades Bowl can get deep quickly on account of the bowl’s ideal location (leeward side of Palisades Ridge), and protection from a coniferous visor of trees.
For you Martha Stewarts out there, don’t forget to check out the Sunrise lift on the backside of Thimble Peak. Slow down as you approach the arts and crafts fair of Coyote Trail and Lower Fawn Ridge; the volcanic crags, nubs, and gullies in this area are a tricksters delight. Make sure your edges are sharp when you descend down the steeps of Hully Gully or Happiness Is. Earn bonus points here for elevating your planks in your Aunt Viola’s hand-crocheted sweater.Heartier souls may be wise to check out the E:K Cat Tours, which offer a backcountry experience without the hassle skinning or boot packing. The service can fill up fast during red alerts, so you’d be wise to book in advance when big Sierra storms threaten.
The Town: Kirkwood
Getting to Kirkwood is not a mission to be taken lightly. Hwy 50 (Echo Pass) and Hwy 88 (Carson Pass) are formidable ramparts in bad weather, even in a Nissan Armada or a chained-up Volkswagen. So whether approaching from the north or west, be mindful that you’re in high Sierra country and drive carefully. If you doubt your safety, turn around. The gnomes of Hope Valley, and the Amador County Sheriff, thank you in advance.
Epic Pass